For more than 10,000 years, the complex estuarine system and coastal environment of Florida’s Franklin County have offered up nature’s bounty in an unparalleled harvest. Oyster shell mounds give evidence that Apalachicola Bay oysters were first appreciated, valued and enjoyed by Native cultures. In contemporary times, the unique ecology of the Apalachicola Bay estuarine system has provided not only wholesome seafood and organic agricultural products, but also a cherished way of life for generations of local families.
Shellfish aficionados concur that the Apalachicola Bay oyster is like no other—often described as “sweet” and “non-gritty.” It is perhaps ironic that the oysters, while providing so much culinary enjoyment, also provide a natural water filter which is essential to maintaining the water quality of the Apalachicola Bay estuarine system—one of the last pristine watersheds in the northern hemisphere.
Smokey Parrish, an Apalachicola native and fourth-generation seafood industry worker, notes that while Apalachicola Bay oysters taste distinctive and delicious, they also are both wholesome and nutritious. These oysters can be enjoyed guilt-free, as one dozen raw oysters contain only about 110 calories, are iron-rich and high in calcium and vitamin A.
Though oysters have been commercially sold in Apalachicola for more than 170 years, cultivation of oysters by introducing oyster shells near natural beds to encourage juvenile oysters (commonly referred to as “spat”) to settle did not take place until around 1918. This process of active cultivation, coupled with the increasingly widespread use of pasteurization and arrival of the Apalachicola Northern Railroad, were primary factors in the development of the oyster harvesting industry in Franklin County. Today, oystering is a way of life for an estimated 1300 area families—many third or fourth generation oystermen—whose harvesting traditions have not changed in 100 years.
Oysters may be “king” in Franklin County, but they are just one of many seafood species to thrive here. According to The Apalachicola National Estuarine Research Reserve, the Apalachicola River Basin is home to 186 species of fish, and the bay system serves as a critical nursery area for more than 95 percent of all species harvested commercially and 85 percent of all species harvested recreationally in the Gulf of Mexico, including shrimp, blue crab, stone crab and finfish.
This diversity and availability of seafood created a demand, which fostered the growth of the county’s commercial seafood industry, now contributing a vital $14 million annually to the local economy.
From pure and simple “oysters on the half shell” at famed local eateries in downtown Apalachicola, to fresh fried grouper, shrimp and oyster platters served with generous helpings of French fries, crab puppies and bay views. Franklin County’s casual seafood restaurants make a definitive, traditional statement.
Apalachicola oysters don’t sing a siren song, but the quality and availability of fresh, wholesome and nutritious local seafood has lured more than one chef to set up shop here. Gourmands have taken note, and bestowed culinary accolades galore. In the fall of 2006, Saveur magazine named Apalachicola one of its “five favorite off-the-beaten-path food towns.”
Franklin County celebrates its seafood heritage throughout the year with food festivals galore. St. George Island hosts an annual Oyster Spat Festival each October, a lively celebration of the beloved bi-valve. Tasty oysters and other seafood delicacies are readily available at the food court, and proceeds benefit pre-selected local charities. And for the “hands-on” visitors, oystermen participate with their boats to personally demonstrate the particulars of oyster harvesting. Live music, a 5k run, parade and fishing round out the festivities.
The first weekend in November is when Apalachicola celebrates The Florida Seafood Festival—the oldest festival of its kind statewide. For 44 years, seafood lovers have gathered here to enjoy two days filled with copious amounts of fresh seafood, the blessing of the fleet and the Miss Florida Seafood pageant. Festivities include an oyster eating and shucking contest, arts and crafts vendors, a parade, music, the Redfish Run footrace and crowing of King Retsyo. To round out the celebration, the Apalachicola Chamber of Commerce hosts an oyster roast on Friday and oysters are the main attraction. Featured wines, microbrews, music and dancing help to ensure a good time is had by all.